1) Customer pickup (and what “done” means)

Pickup standards

• Glazing is clean (no fingerprints, no trapped dust/hairs).
• Frame is square (no twist), corners tight, finish clean.
• Artwork is centered, level, secure.
• Correct hanger installed for size/weight (wire, D-rings, cleat, security).
• Back is neat (dust cover/paper, bumpers, label).
• Customer receives basic care + hanging instructions.

Pickup script (simple)

1. Reveal: show the front first in good light.
2. Confirm: “This is the final design: frame, mat, glazing, and mounting.”
3. Educate (10 seconds): recommend two hooks for larger pieces; explain cleat/security if used.
4. Care: explain glass vs acrylic cleaning.
5. Close: balance due + receipt; offer carry-out help; request review.

Carry-out and packaging

• Corner protectors + sleeve/bubble for larger pieces.
• Two-person carry for oversized/heavy frames.
• Recommend install for heavy/hospitality/security jobs when appropriate.

2) Final QC checklist (before it reaches the front)

Rule: if it’s borderline, fix it now. Customers spot defects instantly.

3) Hanging hardware (wire, D-rings, cleats, security)

Default rule (match hardware to weight)

• Small/light: D-rings + wire is acceptable.
• Medium/large: heavier wire OR two D-rings (no wire) with two hooks.
• Heavy/oversized: French cleat / Z-bar is preferred.
• Commercial/security: use manufacturer-specified 3-point/security systems as required.

D-ring placement

• Install D-rings about 1/3 down from the top (adjust for balance).
• Use correct screw length: bites wood, does not blow through the face.

Wire standards

• Use weight-rated coated/braided wire.
• Clean twists, no sharp tails.
• Wire peak should sit about 2–3 inches below the top when pulled taut (adjust by size).
• Test lift by wire before dust cover.

Cleats and security systems

• Follow manufacturer placement rules (some require exact locations).
• Confirm client intent: “security hangers” vs “anti-theft” vs “heavy-duty stability.”

Bumpers

Always add bumpers: protects wall, improves level hang, reduces shifting.

4) Backing, dust cover, and labeling

Backing types (choose for purpose)

• Foamboard: clean, common; not archival unless specified.
• Acid-free foamboard: better preservation.
• Coroplast: moisture resistance; common for commercial installs.
• MDF/hardboard: rigid but heavier; watch acidity unless sealed/archival barrier used.
• Matboard backer: good for archival packages when appropriate.

Sealing + dust cover

• Seal edges as your shop standard (framer’s tape/sealing tape as needed).
• Dust cover paper: tight, wrinkle-free, trimmed clean.
• Install bumpers after paper is complete.

Label requirements (minimum)

• Customer name + order # + date
• Glazing type (Glass / Acrylic / UV / Museum / AR)
• Care note (e.g., “No ammonia on acrylic”)
• Special build notes (float mount, security hardware, etc.)

5) Fitting package order (stack)

Typical stack (front → back):

1. Frame
2. Glazing (glass or acrylic)
3. Spacing (mat depth or spacers)
4. Mat(s) (if used)
5. Artwork (mounted appropriately)
6. Mount board / support board
7. Backer (foam, coroplast, etc.)
8. Points/brads to secure
9. Seal + dust cover + bumpers + hardware

Key principle: artwork should not touch glazing unless intentionally designed and safe. Use spacers when in doubt.

6) Matting (types, sizing, double/triple, filet)

Why mats exist

• Creates visual “breathing room” and focus.
• Separates artwork from glazing (prevents sticking/condensation contact).
• Improves long-term preservation if archival materials are used.

Mat types to offer

• Basic paper/core: budget, decor posters.
• White core vs colored core: bevel color changes the look.
• Acid-free / conservation: better for valuable art/photos.
• Rag (100% cotton): premium archival.
• Textured: linen/canvas/pebbled; adds richness, hides minor waviness.
• Fabric-wrapped: high-end finish; popular in luxury residential/hospitality.
• Suede/velvet: premium but marks easily—handle carefully.
• Shaded/gradient: strong design tool; use intentionally.
• Metallic: modern accent; avoid clashes with traditional art unless deliberate.

Mat sizing rules (practical)

• Common mat border: 2"–4" depending on art size.
• Large art: 3"–6" looks more premium.
• Bottom weighting (optional): add 1/4"–1/2" extra on bottom for many tall pieces.

Double mat

Use when you want a clean accent line, added depth, or separation from frame color.

• Typical reveal: 1/8"–1/4" (most common is 1/4").
• Dry-fit before final mounting.

Triple mat

Use for big statement pieces, complex palettes, or premium gallery look.

• Example reveal plan: 1/8" + 1/4" or 1/4" + 1/4" depending on boldness.

Filet (fillet)

A decorative inner moulding inside the mat opening. Creates a “frame-within-a-frame.”

• Best for traditional/classic work or upscale presentation.
• Keep enough mat margin for structure; corners must be perfect.
• Check spacing so filet doesn’t shadow against glazing.

Mat cutting quality standards

• No visible overcuts at corners.
• Clean bevel, no fuzz, no burn marks.
• Square openings; consistent borders.
• Always test-fit artwork behind opening before committing.

7) Mounting techniques (hinge, float, posters, textiles)

Decision rule

• Value/replaceability + medium (paper/photo/canvas/textile) + reversibility requirement.

Mounting options (best preservation → least)

1. Photo corners / edge strips (highly reversible)
2. Archival hinging tape (standard conservation)
3. Japanese paper hinge + wheat paste (premium conservation)
4. Dry mount (not reversible; only with customer approval)
5. Spray mount (avoid for quality work; can fail/off-gas)

Floating art (popular premium technique)

• Artwork edges remain visible (no mat window covering edges).
• Use spacers to keep art off glazing.
• Alignment must be perfect; floating highlights crooked lines.
• Discuss edge condition (deckle, tears, waviness) before final build.

Canvas

• Often framed without glazing.
• Use float frames or frames with proper spacing.
• If glazing is used: confirm depth and spacing; avoid contact.

Textiles, jerseys, memorabilia

• Prefer stitching or hidden supports over adhesives.
• Use shadowbox depth; keep fabric off glazing.
• Plan background fabric + layout + secure points + long-term support.

8) Glazing options (glass/acrylic)

Core glazing choices

• Regular glass: clear, affordable, heavier, breakable.
• Non-glare glass: reduces glare but can soften clarity.
• UV-protective glass: reduces UV fade risk.
• Museum (anti-reflective) glass: best clarity + low reflection + UV (premium).
• Acrylic (plexi): lighter, safer, great for large pieces; scratches easier.
• UV acrylic: safety + UV protection for oversized/commercial.
• AR acrylic: premium; handle carefully.

Simple selling logic

• If it matters (originals, photos, sunlight): recommend UV or Museum.
• If it’s big/heavy, shipping, or public space: recommend acrylic.
• If it’s a budget poster: regular glass/acrylic is acceptable.

Cleaning rules (teach every staff member)

• Glass: standard glass cleaner OK; avoid spraying into frame edge.
• Acrylic: no ammonia; use acrylic-safe cleaner + microfiber.

Handling rules

• Gloves or clean hands; final clean right before sealing.
• Acrylic attracts dust—plan extra time for final inspection.

9) Frame styles + joining + double frame/stacking

Frame style categories (how to talk about them)

• Modern: thin, clean lines; black/white/natural; metal.
• Transitional: simple profile with subtle detail.
• Traditional: ornate; gold/silver; deeper profiles.
• Rustic/Farmhouse: distressed woods; warm tones.
• Gallery: squared profile; often black/white/natural with mats.
• Float frames: canvas or float-mount presentation.

Fit rules (avoid crush or rattle)

• Account for artwork thickness + mat thickness + spacers/fillets + backer thickness.
• Too tight = buckling; too loose = shifting/rattle.

Joining standards

• Tight corners, aligned faces, no lips.
• Check diagonals for square; correct before fitting.
• Touch-up only as needed; do not hide bad joins with paint.

Double frame / stacking

• Stacked mouldings: one moulding on top of another for depth.
• Liner/inner frame: similar effect to fillet but larger profile.
• Use when depth is needed (shadowbox), or for a premium layered look.
• Plan for extra weight: upgrade hardware accordingly.

10) Production flow SOP (shop floor)

Standard build sequence

1. Create work order + cut list
2. Cut and join frame
3. Cut mats / prepare spacers
4. Mount artwork
5. Cut and clean glazing
6. Assemble package
7. Secure with points/brads
8. Install hardware
9. Dust cover + bumpers + label
10. Final QC, photo, stage for pickup

Stop-the-line defects (fix immediately)

• Dust inside package
• Crooked art or mats
• Visible overcuts
• Frame out of square
• Wrong glazing/material vs work order

11) Customer visit + design consultation

Intake questions (fast)

• Where will it hang? (sunlight, humidity, traffic)
• Goal: protect vs decorate vs match room vs gift
• Budget range
• Replaceable or sentimental/valuable?
• Deadline

Repeatable design steps

1. Select frame family (modern/traditional/rustic/gallery)
2. Decide mat vs no mat + mat width
3. Pick glazing (glass vs acrylic; standard vs UV vs Museum/AR)
4. Confirm mounting method (archival hinge, float, dry mount with approval)
5. Confirm hardware (wire, cleat, security)
6. Summarize package + price clearly

Common winning combos

• Gallery classic: black frame + white mat + UV glazing
• Warm modern: light wood + off-white mat + UV acrylic
• Contemporary: white frame + float mount + spacers + AR glazing
• Traditional premium: ornate gold + double mat + fillet + Museum glass

12) Paper invoice / work order requirements

Non-negotiable fields

• Customer name, phone, email
• Order date + due date
• Item description (what is being framed)
• Exact art size (W × H) + notes on borders/deckle
• Frame moulding code + finish
• Mat details: top + bottom colors, reveals, border widths, fillet if used
• Glazing type (glass/acrylic; standard/UV/Museum/AR)
• Mounting method (hinge/float/dry mount/sewn, etc.)
• Backing type
• Hardware type (wire/cleat/security)
• Notes: pre-existing defects, approvals, special handling
• Price breakdown + deposit + balance due
• Customer signature/approval (especially for dry mount)

Condition notes (protect the shop)

Write down tears, creases, stains, fading, warping, cracks, etc. Add “Existing condition acknowledged.”

13) Training plan + competency checklist

Week 1 (foundations)

• Terminology, measuring, dust control
• Basic mat cuts and fitting
• Hardware basics (D-rings + wire)

Week 2 (production competence)

• Build complete simple mat job start-to-finish
• Glazing cleaning mastery
• QC discipline and rework standards

Week 3–4 (advanced)

• Double/triple mats, float mounting, spacers
• Fillet installs
• Oversized acrylic handling
• Shadowbox basics (jerseys/textiles)

Competency checklist (pass/fail)

14) Safety + shop discipline

• Glass cutting: eye protection, proper disposal, clean bench.
• Acrylic: keep masked until final; prevent scratches.
• Blades/tools: store safely; replace dull blades (dull = dangerous).
• Dust control: clean station before final assembly and glazing close.

15) Quick reference cheat sheets

A) When to choose acrylic

• Large sizes, heavy frames, shipping, kids rooms, public spaces, hospitality installs.
• Default: if it’s big, choose acrylic unless customer insists on glass.

B) When to use spacers

• Float mounts
• No-mat designs (glazing separation needed)
• Pastels/charcoal (never touch glazing)
• Any piece that can stick to glass

C) When NOT to dry mount

• Original art, limited editions, valuable photos, sentimental pieces.
• Dry mount only with clear customer approval and signature.